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Lucknow

From the picture-perfect architecture of the Bara Imambara to the chaotic environs of the Chowk market, the capital of Uttar Pradesh overwhelms at every turn. Gourmands exult in the tundey and kakori kebabs made fresh and sold at every street corner, dance and music lovers delight in the kathak and thumri performances, and lovers of poetry find solace in the fact that Faiz is quoted even by the corner paanwallah.

Brief History
According to popular folklore, Lucknow derives its name from the younger brother of Lord Rama, Lakshman who was also known as Lakhan. Lakshman set-up his capital at the present site of Lakshman Tila, and city was named Lakshamanpur or Lakhanmau. With the passage of time, the city came to be known as Lakhnau, and the British anglicized it to Lucknow.
The subah of Awadh, known as the granary of India, was important strategically for the control of the fertile plain between the Ganga and the Yamuna rivers known as the Doab. It was a wealthy kingdom, able to maintain its independence against threats from the Marathas, the British and the Afghans.
Since 1350 CE Lucknow and parts of the Awadh region were ruled by the Delhi Sultanate, Sharqi Sultanate, Mughal Empire, Nawabs of Awadh, East India Company and the British Raj. Lucknow was one of the major centres of the Indian rebellion of 1857, participated actively in India's Independence movement, and emerged as an important city of North India. Until 1719, subah of Awadh was a province of the Mughal Empire administered by a Governor appointed by the Emperor. Saadat Khan also called Burhan-ul-Mulk, a Persian adventurer was appointed the Nazim of Awadh in 1722 and he established his court in Faizabad near Lucknow.
For about eighty-four years (from 1394 to 1478) Awadh was part of the Sharqi Sultanate of Jaunpur; Emperor Humayun made it a part of the Mughal Empire around 1555. During Emperor Jehangir's rule, he granted an estate in Awadh to a nobleman, Sheikh Abdul Rahim, who had won his favour. Sheikh Abdul Rahim later built Machchi Bhawan in this estate; this later became the seat of power from where his descendants, the Sheikhzadas, controlled the region.

Nawab - the plural of the Arabic word 'naib', meaning 'assistant' - was the term given to governors appointed by the Mughal emperor all over India to assist him in managing the Empire. In the absence of expeditious transport and communication facilities, they were practically independent rulers of their territory and wielded the power of life and death over their subjects. The Nawabs of Lucknow were, in fact, the Nawabs of Awadh, but were so referred to because, after the reign of the third Nawab, Lucknow became the capital of their realm. The city was North India’s cultural capital, and its nawabs, best remembered for their refined and extravagant lifestyles, were patrons of the arts. Under them, music and dance flourished, and many monuments were erected. Of the monuments standing today, the Bara Imambara, the Chhota Imambara, and the Rumi Darwaza are notable examples. One of the more lasting contributions by the Nawabs is the syncretic composite culture that has come to be known as the Ganga-Jamuni Tehzeeb.

Lucknow Chikankari
An integral part of Indian culture since 655 AD Chikan Kari was strongly rekindled by Moghul queen Noor Jehan in a later date. It not only enjoyed patronization of the Moguls but also attained perfection as the exquisite needlework and handwork underwent further honing and refinement. Admired the world over today, the art has trickled into every section of the fashion world and every part of India–thanks to the contribution of different forms of medium like films and fashion shows.

Cuisine
Awadhi cuisine from the city of Lucknow consists of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Awadh has been greatly influenced by Mughal cooking techniques, and the cuisine of Lucknow bears similarities to those of Persia, Kashmir, Punjab, and Hyderabad; and the city is known for Nawabi foods.
The bawarchis and rakabdars of Awadh gave birth to the dum style of cooking or the art of cooking over a slow fire, which has become synonymous with Lucknow today.Their spread consisted of elaborate dishes like kebabs, kormas, biryani, kaliya, nahari-kulchas, zarda, sheermal, roomali rotis, and warqi parathas. The richness of Awadh cuisine lies not only in the variety of cuisine but also in the ingredients used like mutton, paneer, and rich spices including cardamom and saffron.

What to see

Kaiserbaugh Palace Complex
If you're a fan of Bollywood classics like Umrao Jaan and Pakeezah then you might recognise these palaces as the inspiration for those opulent sets. Built by Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, this palace complex is now a shadow of its former self but it won’t be hard to imagine the past. The marble tombs of Sufed Baradari and Paree Khana are stunning, set as they are in verdant gardens replete with charming fountains.

Constantia
This summer home of East India Company army officer Major General Claude Martin is now the central jewel in the crown of the prestigious La Martiniere school. Constructed in the late 1700s, this building is a sterling example of the mix of European and Indian sensibilities popularly adopted by Indophiles. A majestic column called Lat rises beside the building and serves as a memorial to Martin.

The Residency
Built in 1800 by Nawab Ali Khan—the then Nawab of Awadh—to serve as the residence for the British Resident general, The Residency is now considered Lucknow’s most monumental landmark. It was a scene to one of the first uprisings of the First War of Indian Independence in 1857 and quickly became one of the most talked about battlements during the siege. Today the remains are preserved and protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The cemetery at the nearby ruined church holds the graves of 2,000 men, women and children, including that of Sir Henry Lawrence, who died defending the empire. The Residency is now used as a government office, part of which is maintained as a museum, in which you will find a wide variety of artifacts and installations that tell the story of the freedom struggle of 1857.

Bara Imambara
Bara Imambara is a Shia Muslim shrine built in 1783 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in an effort to provide employment for locals who were then devastated by persistent famine. It's easily the grandest ancient-day structure in Lucknow. The central hall of the Imambara is 50m in length and 16m wide, making it one of the largest in the world without any external support of wood, iron, or stone beams. The complex also has a maze and a step-well meant for devotees to use.

Hussainabad Imambara
Hussainabad Imambara is also known as the Chota Imambara or Palace of Lights, after the spectacular chandeliers that light up its gilded interiors during the festival of Muharram. Replete with gold-edged mirrors, a golden dome, and silver throne, it is smaller but by no means less grand than the Bara Imambara. This complex also boasts an imitation Taj Mahal, a decaying watchtower, India’s tallest clock tower and the one-time summer residence of Nawab Mohammad Ali Shah.

Rumi Darwaza
After the British crushed the 1857 Indian uprising they entered through this imposing gateway to the old city of Lucknow. This intricately crafted gate got its name from its aesthetic inspiration—it’s modeled after a similar gateway in Istanbul—or Rumi as the city was known in the days of the Byzantine Empire.

Sikandar Bagh
Believed to have been named after Nawab Wajid Ali Shah's favourite wife Sikandar Mahal Begum, this 19th century fortified villa hosted many poetry, music, and dance performances. Sikandar Bagh was also one of the staging grounds of the 1857 uprising, where more than 2,000 soldiers took on the British with the support of ruler Begum Hazrat Mahal. Aside from the odd bullet hole, the peaceful gardens show little evidence of this bloody struggle but remember to pay your respects.

Shah Najaf Imambara
The mausoleum of Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider and his handful of wives takes its name from the Shiite pilgrimage site of Najaf in Iraq and is a reference to the revered Hazrat Ali who lies buried there. A lovely garden full of flowers lies adjacent to the mausoleum, from where one of Lucknow’s biggest and most elaborate Tazia processions embarks.

Dilkusha Palace
On the banks of the Gomti river lies the Dilkhusha hunting retreat built by Nawab Sadat Ali Khan. It's one of the few, rare Nawabi structures that are inspired less by Mughal influences and more by Western design. The forests that once surrounded this idyllic spot are sadly now long gone but it's still well worth the visit to Dilkusha Palace.

Jama Masjid
In the year 1423, Sultan Ahmed Shah constructed the Jama Masjid in Lucknow. It is built entirely of yellow sandstone and is known for its intricate style of design and architecture.

Clock Tower
Between the Bara Imambara and Chhota Imambara is the Clock Tower of Lucknow. This huge tower was constructed by Nawab Nasir-ud-Din Haider in the year 1880. The Clock Tower in Lucknow reaches up to a staggering height of 221 feet and is the tallest Clock Tower in India. The Clock Tower also has the biggest fitted clock that cost the government around Rs. 1.75 lakhs at that time.

Moti Mahal
The Moti Mahal in Lucknow is one of the most beautiful monuments of India. The Nawab of Lucknow, Saadat Ali Khan, constructed it. The Lucknow Moti Mahal is also known as Palace of Pearls. The Moti Mahal is located on the borders of Gomti and provides a spectacular view of the city of Nawabs. The Nawabs used this palace to view birds in flight and spend time in leisure. There are three buildings that comprise the whole construction.
The two other buildings are known as Shah Manzil and Mubarak Manzil. These two buildings were added later by Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider. These were used by the Nawab to watch animal combats and animal fights. The Moti Mahal is preserved till date by the concerned authorities and is one of the most popular tourist attractions of Lucknow.

Annual Festival - Lucknow Mahotsav
The annual Lucknow Mahotsav—or Lucknow Festival—is a 15-day fête held over November and December to commemorate Nawabi ethos. Plan to visit during this time and witness the colourful processions, traditional dramas, Kathak dances, ekka (cart) races and kite-flying, as well as sarangi and sitar recitals, and performances featuring ghazals, qawalis, and thumri songs.

Begum Hazrat Mahal Park
Erected as a memorial to one of the principal characters of the 1857 uprising, today the park quite rightly hosts the annual Lucknow Mahotsav. Throughout the year, locals enjoy using the verdant space for exercise, picnics and to spend time relaxing with friends and family. The best time to visit is in the evening when the lights go on and the fountains spring to life. A lovely taste of a slower life.

Best time to visit
Lucknow enjoys a warm subtropical climate with cool, dry winters from December to February and hot summers from April to May. It’s advisable to avoid the fog-heavy winter months here, as well as the very wet monsoon months from June to September. The best time to visit the Nawabi capital of Lucknow is from October to March, which incidentally is also peak season for tourist travel.
 

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